So you’re ready to dye your own veil? Okay then, here’s how I do it – but my method isn’t the only out there and it does have some limitations, but for the budget costumer, my process will give you a Technicolor veil that your friends will envy.

First off, get to Dharma Trading (www.dharmatrading.com) and get yourself some Silk Habotai (sometimes called China silk). I prefer 5mm (mm is the French unit of weight called Momme and is pronounced “mummy”) because I like semi-sheer floaty veils. 8mm is a little heavier and opaque and many dancers are just as happy dancing with it. You can get 5mm in 36” and 45” widths. 8mm comes in 45” and 55” widths. It’s best to order a full 11-yard bolt (get some friends to go in on an order with you) and have it sent via USPS Priority – it’s the fastest, cheapest way to get your silk.

Okay, now that you’ve placed your order, it’s time to round up everything else you’ll need. Pick up some RIT dye in the colors you’d like to have on your veil – make sure to get the liquid, the powder gets messy and clogs up the spray bottles. Speaking of spray bottles, get one for each color of dye, plus one for vinegar and one for water. Now, run to the hardware section and get some plastic drop cloths – you’ll need one that is at least 9 feet long (so you can stretch your veil out). You’ll also need to pick up a BIG aluminum turkey roasting pan from the supermarket along with some aluminum foil and a gallon of vinegar (it’s cheap, so get the big one). Oh, and don’t forget the rubber gloves!

As you’re unloading the car, you favorite mail carrier arrives with your box from Dharma (what timing!) and now we start the prep work. Before you cut the silk, unfold it and, I know you want to – so go ahead – drape your silk all over yourself, wrap yourself up like the Mummy – it’s okay, I give you permission.

Are you done now? Alright then, measure out 3 yards (add 2” for shrinkage) and cut (or if you’re feeling bold, since silk generally tears straight, cut in about an inch then let her rip!) Now we’ve got to wash it. I usually just wash my silk one veil at time in warm water in the kitchen sink (make sure it’s clean first) with a little bit of dish soap. Spend some time agitating it then rinse it well and hang it up to dry. ! Under no circumstances should you ever dry your silk in a tumble dryer – especially if you use dryer sheets. The fabric softener that coats the drum will cause your silk to break down faster (because of it’s organic nature, silk breaks down anyway over time – due to exposure to hand oils for instance – but we don’t need to hurry the process along). So do your silk a favor and hang it dry.

While that’s drying, go lay out your plastic – make sure you have a few odds-n-end items to anchor down both the edges of the plastic and your silk. After that, lets do some test strips to get the colors right. Since this is going to be permanent, you want it to look good – right? So test strips are your ticket to making that happen. And if you have a microwave, it won’t take very long – besides your silk is still wet anyway.

First off, mix 1 part water to 1 part vinegar (that means half and half) although, you can go a little heavy on the vinegar with no ill effects. I also cut my dye the same way (unless I know that I want a pastel shade, then I really dilute it). Put each in their own, individual spray bottles. Also, reserve one bottle just for water (you might want to mark that one, so you don’t mistake it for the vinegar). Now, grab a ceramic or glass bowl and lay your test strip in it. Spray lightly with vinegar solution then spray with dye. {1}

Now, run it over the microwave and cook it on high for 30 seconds (make sure to cover the bowl with a paper towel to prevent splatter – ‘cos you really don’t need a Technicolor microwave, do you? {2}

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Then rinse it well in cool water and iron it dry.

Do you like the colors? Yeah? Great! No? Then aren’t you glad you don’t have 9 feet of it? Keep playing around with it until you do like it.

Excellent, the silk is dry (or at least dry enough to lay out without it sticking together in a big wet mess) so preheat the oven to 250 degrees and let’s head over and lay the silk out on the plastic sheeting you just got. Anchor down and start spraying it with your vinegar and water solution.

Now the fun part! Put your gloves on and lets start spraying this baby!!! Good thing you already have your design in mind. I like to start from the middle and work outward – especially on this veil where the lighter color is in the center of the piece. Once I got the red done, I started doing the edges in black.

Now that the color is down, you’ll notice a lot of big spotty areas. It’s time to blend! I blend with my gloved fingertips and a bottle of water. Silk dries quickly so you should rewet it when blending.

Make sure that you have some paper towels handy so you don’t absent-mindedly move from blending a dark area to a light area and transfer in some color you didn’t want – Doh! Also, spend some time blending the transition areas – it’ll look nicer and …er…blend better visually.

Now that everything is blended – it’s time to scrunch – this is what gives Kindred Spirit veils a shibori look to them. I start from one end and scrunch to the middle. Then go to the other end and scrunch to the middle again. It’s easier that way, since the plastic is covered with dye and you don’t want Technicolor feet (or do you?) The important thing is this – keep like color to like color when scrunching. That is the black with the black the red with the red. Otherwise….use your imagination…

Now that you have this big, wet, scrunched up mess. Grab your turkey pan. Now CAREFULLY pick up your scrunched silk and lay it in the turkey pan so it doesn’t over lap.

Seal up the silk in the pan with aluminum foil (really well, it needs to steam – that’s what makes the colors pop) and put it in the oven. I bake it for about 20-25 minutes. Then pull it out and let sit on the counter-top until it cools. Notice how some areas of the silk have gotten lighter? Don’t worry about it.

Rinse it in cool (not cold) water. Squeeze it out and run to the ironing board and iron it dry. This is important for a couple of reasons – it sets the color a little bit more (just in case), it gives the silk a great sheen and you get instant gratification!

Enjoy your new veil!

Jennifer Dawson is Kindred Spirit Veils and dyes exclusively for Istar Costumes.
www.jenndances.com and www.istarcostumes.com